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Ilha do Farol, barrier island on Ria Formosa
Photography by Claudine Boeglin
Ilha do Farol (lighthouse island) is the western tip of Ilha da Culatra, a barrier island within the Ria Formosa system formed by shifting sandbanks. Permanent settlement began after 1851 with the construction of the omnipresent Farol do Cabo de Santa Maria, which established a fixed human presence in an otherwise unstable landscape. The houses photographed were built by fishermen from Olhão and Faro directly on sand without much urban planning, adding to the end-of-the-world cult status of this piece of sand.
Meet at Mar A Mais, the beach bar designed for golden hours.
And don’t think men own anything but the pose at Mar A Mais (too much water).
Right behind the lighthouse, at the edge of the water, this is a full-on two-generation women’ affair. It was started by Rita’s mother and her aunt. Both grew up on the island and can be seen repairing the staircase. The bar was snatched by winter tempests and closed since February. Rita, who plays double in the mirror, took over the place to keep the business in the family. Her grandfather who first settled in Farol. His house still stands on its sandy monticule. Tongue-in-cheek and funky, Mar A Mais is the dreamers’ hangout with local meals, suave margaritas, and DJ sets at twilights.
Photography Claudine Boeglin @dandyvagabond
Photography and text Claudine Boeglin
