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Lisbon, Bairro Alto
From Bohemia to Darkness to Revival
Photography by Claudine Boeglin
In the 18th and 19th centuries, Bairro Alto and Rua do Século in São Bento were the hollow veins of black ink, home to the printing press and journalism. By the early 20th century, the neighborhood had become fertile ground for writers, poets, and revolutionaries —alongside a bohemian nightlife and crammed Fado houses. This atmosphere was gradually stifled by the Estado Novo dictatorship (1933–1974), leaving the Bairro abandoned, derelict, and silent.
Since the Carnation Revolution, the Bairro has rebuilt its beat. Construction workers renovate its buildings filled with secrets and stories, and tourists love its culture and nightlife. Stop by Mercado de Ofícios de Bairro Alto, and you’ll meet Rui (Latoaria Maciel), a seventh-generation tin maker. Here candelabras, lanterns, and chandeliers are still entirely crafted by hand, a rare savoir-faire kept alive.
Photography Claudine Boeglin @dandyvagabond
Photography Claudine Boeglin